Why We're Crushing Over Hand Tied Weft Extensions

Janelle Alexis Flatt

January 4, 2020

Hand tied weft (HTW) extensions, the luscious hair extension craze popping up all over your Instagram feed, is actually not new to the beauty industry. It’s merely a modern take on a sew-in weave. Actually, hair extensions date back to Cleopatra and the Egyptians.

So why are we crushing over hand tied wefts? Instead of traditional machine-sewn strips, the hand tied weft is much thinner. Beads and string are the new method to “anchor” the weft in place, replacing bulky braids that used to act as anchors. Right from the start, you lose the heft from where the weft is attached to the scalp – aka it’s much harder to see the wefts if you have thin hair. Your beau may not even be able to feel.

Everyone will notice the fullness, though. Since the weft is applied from one side of the hairline to the other, you get full uninterrupted surface coverage. We’re talking Victoria’s Secret model hair here! The application is so much more customizable. The application time goes down to no more than two and a half hours. Since there’s no heat or glue, it’s definitely one of the best choices in keeping hair healthy. There are few downfalls. You’ll have to go into the salon more often to get your extensions moved up. The way hair can be worn is a little limited. But damn when it looks this good why wear it up?

Sold, right?! I can’t stress booking a consultation. We even offer virtual consults.

Your stylist should ask about your hair history, goals, how you wear your hair, why you even want extensions, what extensions you have tried in the past. I will be honest, not all are good candidates for hand tied wefts. Don’t worry, there’s plenty of other options. If you have a good pro, they will work to not only to determine what method to use but ensure you’re comfortable and happy with the results. For instance, one of my clients has super baby-fine hair with a sensitive scalp. She's also a perfectionist; if there's something wrong with one extension, she'll be touching it constantly. So I've gradually put more hand tied weft rows in using an application she's comfortable with, while filling the upper-top sides with fusion extensions.

I’ve trained with three different companies/methods solely for hand tied wefts – one a very long time ago whose name I can’t even remember, Babe Hair, and most recently Natural Beaded Rows (NBR) by DKW Styling. Across companies, the application is pretty similar; each uses beads, needles, thread, and of course hair. What acts as the anchor is the biggest difference between these methods – whether it is the silicone-lined bead or the string.

Before you arrive, I’ve already colored the wefts to match your hair or just washed them so they fluff out more. I rarely use one color of hair extensions. Mixing two or three shades that are in the your hair make the results look so much better, more real. My beads and string match your base color and everything is out, ready to go!

Next, we section off your hair. The deeper the sectioning, the more stress is placed on those end beads. The side anchors can be placed closer to the hairline; however, if my client likes to move their part, the sectioning really needs to match on both sides. Next, hair is measured to each section then cut if needed. This is the only part of the application where glue is used – to reseal the hair so it does not fray or fall apart – and it’s not on the scalp. Depending on the type of hair used, I will place one to four wefts per row. Usually, more hair is added on the rows toward the back. If you put more on the sides, it can become very bulky. Your service is finished off with a cut to blend in your natural hair then styled.

Something that’s super important yet sometimes overlooked is extension aftercare. After putting the time and money into extensions, you want to keep them looking fabulous. So do we! Depending on the hair, it can last anywhere from six months to a full year with proper at home care and stylist attention. Those locks want to hit the town. We get it. But we have to take the time to show each guest how to wash, brush, and style their new hair to keep it looking fabulous!

Soon, some guests will share exactly how their keep their extensions looks fab. Be on the lookout for that.

Are you a candidate for hand tied wefts? Start by filling out our virtual consultation form:

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